Week 5: Finding the Veiled Christ

“Sometimes I think that Naples is the only hope that’s left for mankind” wrote philosopher Luciano DeCrescenzo. After my day in this city I must agree with him. Daily, on the newspapers, we can read bad news that add sadness to the difficulties of the everyday life. But the atmosphere you breathe in Naples is different. Though many buildings are in evident need of refurbishment, and you may end on some dog’s poo with every step you take, Naples amazes you.

When you think of Naples the first things that comes to mind are sun, clothing hanging up to dry, the Vesuvius, the seaside, coffee, pizza and nativity scenes. When I visited the city, the sun decided to hide behind the clouds, leaving the rain to accompanying me and my friend throughout the whole day. We were told that the Veiled Christ is one of the things you should not miss when in Naples. So we made that our destination, and decided to stop to everything that would catch our attention on our way there.

We started from Porta Capuana and walked through Spaccanapoli, finding ourselves in front of the Duomo and the beautiful San Gennaro’s chapel.

 

The rain welcomed us back once we got outside. Therefore we decided for a coffee break with cornetto (Italian breakfast pastry filled with cream, nutella or jam), to gain more energy for what followed.

What followed was a tour of Naples underground, through tunnels and spaces designed for water. The chance to feel like a speleologist for one hour was just irresistible. And off we went, with just the candlelight, exploring a different Naples. When the Greeks settled in the city they used to obtain tuff from these quarries. Then Romans turned them into cisterns/water tanks, and during WW II these spaces were used as bomb shelters by the inhabitants. There is not better evidence f the History layers that can be found in this city. There are medieval buildings built on an ancient Roman Theatre that is now completely blended in the new architecture of the city. A perfect example of how this city is able to reinvent itself incorporating the past into the future.

 

All this adventure made us very hungry. When in Naples, how can you resist to pizza, that was invented in this very city? So Margherita it is. Delicious fuel to keep discovering the city. Not far away from the pizzeria is the Santa Chiara cloister. It is a pity we cannot enjoy the inner garden as much as we would have if the sun was out. I would have loved to sit on those colorful benches for a while.

We are still looking for the Veiled Christ, and we ask direction many, many times. Every single time Neapolitans are more than happy to help us finding our way, showing us all their warmth, making us feel at home. It was like asking directions to friends.

It is thanks to their help that we, map-less tourists, found the San Severo Chapel, and remain mesmerized in front of the Veiled Christ. It is difficult to explain in words what the statue communicates. The craftsmanship of the creators of many of the Works of Art one finds here is astonishing. Difficult to believe that the Veil of the Christ and the net of the Disillusion statue are made of marble. These statues appear to be alive, ready to move at any moment. It is incredible what men can create from such a cold and hard material such marble.

 

Our last stop is Piazza Plebiscito, and the sight of the Vesuvius from the lungomare. It is still raining but the landscape does not loose it’s charm.

This was a day full of Art, which is not difficult to find in Italy. What made it really special was the warmth of Neapolitans, their smile, their lively and energetic voice when they scream from one window to the other. I have never felt as welcomed as I have felt in this city.